Sunday, August 7, 2011

GULLAH, Root Doctors, and the Sea Islands



      Imagine a place lost since the time from the Civil War.  The sea islands of South Carolina and Georgia, were just that  at the turn of  the  1900's.  Everybody knew about the taking of  Ft. Sumter at started the Civil War when 7 states separated from the union.  Few know about Ft. Fremont, St. Helena Island, and Port Royal.  They were taken at the beginning of the war also.  Ft. Fremont is covered in weeds and brush.  Trying to find away to the beach on St. Helena's Island I found it and looked up the history, about this place time left behind.
   
Fort Fremont S.C.
     Talk about forgotten.  This amazed me, especially the stories of  Hoo doo, Root  Doctors, and most of all the way they talk.  I could not believe stumbling on this, I had to know more.  I have been to Japan and Germany,  I felt like I was in a foreign country.  Really, they have their own language, Gullah.  Gullah is not only who they are, it is what they are, and their dialog.

     This is where the big gun went long gone from here.  When Port Royal fell to the union troops all the big plantation owners left, and never returned.  Some of these sea islands go way inland, they cover the coast down into the tip of Georgia, and Savanna.  In Georgia, they're called  Ceechee, but here they're called Gullah.  Their were two types of slave owners; the English Common Law, who believed that the slaves were property and nothing more, not human.  The other slaves from France, Spain, and Portugal, were kept by Catholic Codes for Blacks.  The English were mostly Protestant, so in turn the slaves of the low country have it mixed into their beliefs.  Down around New Orleans, their beliefs are more Catholic inspired.  Both with a strong mixture of their African roots from Gambia, Ghana, and Nigeria on the West Coast of Africa.


       Beaufort S.C. didn't even get a bridge out to these sea islands until 1930.  Think about that, it is 21 miles from the swinging bridge on Ladies Island across the bay from Beaufort, to the bridge to Fripp Island.   Captain John Fripp, a Pirate from the days of our Independence.  That's another story you should look up on the net.  The University of South Carolina has Pritchard's Island, for the studies of the sea turtle.  Hunting Island is a state park.  Now just think no bridge till 1930.  Cat Island, Yamacraw Island, Daufuskie Island.  These are just a few if the islands.  Kiawah, Hilton Head, and the other islands that are gated communities for the rich, were owned by the slaves.  During the reconstruction after the Civil War, each slave was given 40 acres and a mule.
     This forgotten place, these forgotten people, and few black people I have met know about Penn Center, or this place.  Penn Center, Penn Normal, Industrial and Agricultural School.  The first school of higher learning for blacks, and was visited by Martian Luther King during the march and movement of the 60's.  The only way to go into Beaufort to a doctor or to get supplies was in a small boat.  The only post office was at the store in Frogmore.  That is where the most famous "root doctor" Dr. Buzzard checked his mail.  Stories go that any checks he just tore up and kept the cash.  Reason being if he singed his name they could charge him with practicing medicine without a license.  Hoo doo is what it is called, and is very powerful medicine to the Gullah people.  You are free to believe it the miraculous without fear.  Immerse yourself in a culture, where spells, plasters, formulas, and potions, cure snake bites, evil spirits, natural, spiritual, and un-natural ailments. 
These magical medical  practices have been done since times beginning.  When your body is out of balance or harmony with things, you can be really sick.  The use of herbs, praying, today we get new medicines form the amazon, spider venom, snake venom, I think we still need them.
  
Down this road is where an old plantation was "Oaks Plantation" that is where they say Dr. Buzzard got the "sight" as they call it.  It's said a mockingbird landed on his head.  The thing is like stories go, he never seems to die.  The real root doctor, Dr. Buzzard died in 1928 or 1929.  (Stephaney Robinson) aka Dr. Buzzard had a very powerful mantle,  he's the one who said a mockingbird landed on his head died in 1947.  He used hoo doo to change the way things went in Beaufort County Court.  This is told by Sheriff James E. McTeer who also claims to be a "root doctor" too.   A few years ago I was telling an artist in Canada on the inter-net about Dr. Buzzard, and she said she met him down in Beaufort, and he wore blue/purple glasses.  Strange, after I told her he was dead,  OOOO no he isn't!  she told, I saw him.  You know, who am I to say she didn't.
     I had just gotten my first computer back then, was not that much into the inter-net.  Their was no my space, or facebook.   On Saturdays the store on St. Helena Island had people sitting on the porch talking and caring on.  Around the side a large black man was at a grill putting Bar-B-Q sauce on pork ribs, with a paps blue ribbon beer in his hand.  Tongs, paper towels, and bag of white bread were on a pick nick table.  Along the side of the street, where the sweet grass ladies sale their baskets.  I sat down and watched as they worked.  The Gullah even have their own bible "The Nyew Testment" here is how some of it goes.
     Now Jedus been bon een Betlem town, een Judea, jurin de same time wen Herod been king.  Atta Jedus been bon, some wise man dem dat study bout de staa dem come ta Jerusalem fom weh dey been een de east.  And dey aks say, "Wen  de chile da, wa bon fa be da Jew people king?  We beena see de staa wa tell bout um een de east, an we come fa woshup um op.
     Brer Rabbit, Brer Fox, Brer Bear, and Brer Wolf, were Gullah storytelling.  Rich African oral traditions, if you want read Daughters of the Dust "the language you cry in", for more Gullah.
     I've left from down there, over 10 year now, and probably would have to learn to lesson all over again.  I did learn how they weave the baskets, and that they cost $265.00 and up.  Really nice ones are over $400.00.

     Well; we've got our "goofer dust"  don't get "hag ridden" keep a "lodestone" in your pocket.  Pour "salt" around your windows and doorways.  With the left over dye from the indigo, paint your shutters blue to keep out spirits.  Also note that each day in it self has power.  Sunday is the Sun and its color is yellow, a day of peace, harmony, friendship, recovering lost things, or friendships.  Monday the Moon color white, is a day of love, and fertility.  Tuesday is Mars color red, its a day of courage, and stopping enemies.  Wednesday is Mercury color purple, is a day of health, spiritual well being, and good day to influence others.  Thursday is Jupiter color blue, a day of wealth, luck, and ambition.  Friday is Venus color green, love, happiness, lust, and romance.  And  Saturday is Saturn color black, a day of evil, and negativity, protect the home from bad things on this day. 
  Now that you have these words of protection, most of all be inspired by the places and people you meet.  They all have stories, and some just might stick with you the rest of your life. 

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